One thing that I should make perfectly clear before I say anything else is that the United States enjoys one of the safest food supplies in the world, in many respects. Most of the ranchers, farmers, producers, distributors, grocers and restaurateurs in the US are highly reputable and genuinely try to protect all of us from illness caused by food mishandling, contamination, or other adulteration. No one wants to cause foodborne disease outbreaks, and certainly no one wants the bad publicity associated with being identified as the source of an outbreak. That is a good thing, because none of the federal or state agencies responsible for regulating the food supply and ensuring food safety have all the resources necessary to police all of the producers involved in bringing our food to the table. Without reputable industry partners, many more instances of foodborne disease would occur.
Of course, foodborne illness occurs anyway, despite our best efforts to prevent it. The Centers for Disease Control and Prevention estimates that 76 million cases of foodborne and diarrheal diseases occur each year, with 5,000 of those cases being fatal. The diseases are typically caused by bacteria, viruses and parasites, although toxins also contribute some burden of illness as well.
Many factors contribute to illness, usually a lapse in temperature controls, improper cooking techniques, cross-contamination of raw foods (like salads) with bacteria from meat or poultry, or poor hygiene by a particular food handler. Each outbreak is unique in some way, but there is a range of usual suspect points of failure that can be predicted and prevented. And most of the time, disease is prevented.
One thing that worries me about our current food production and distribution system is how centralized it has become. Centralization and concentration of production helps achieve efficiencies and keep costs low, but it also allows many more people to get sick when something goes wrong. Some examples, and recent experience, illustrates this point.
In 1994, more than 2,000 people became ill from ice cream contaminated with salmonella. The ice cream was pasteurized, and no one could figure out how it was getting contaminated. Later it was determined that the pasteurized ice cream was being shipped in tanker trucks to another location for packaging. After unloading the ice cream, the trucking company was picking up liquid egg products and hauling that load, and then sending the truck back to get more ice cream. The contamination was occurring in the tanker, from the raw eggs. The producer didn't own the trucks, and had no idea what was happening.
In 1996, more than 10,000 people in Japan became ill with E. coli O157:H7, from radish sprouts. Most of the cases occurred among school aged children. Part of what facilitated the huge number of children infected was that school lunches were being prepared in a central kitchen and then distributed all over the country to be served. When contaminated sprouts, which are notoriously difficult to keep clean, were served to the children, thousands became ill. The centralization and scale is what enabled the size of the outbreaks.
More recently, hundreds of people became ill from peanut butter contaminated with salmonella when a single plant had production problems. And, more than 200 people in 44 states became ill with E. coli from eating raw spinach produced on a single farm that had problems keeping animals out of the large spinach fields.
Food no longer stays local. One producer in California spread disease to 44 states. In 1996, raspberries from Guatemala were contaminated with Cyclospora oocysts, causing disease in multiple states. Today the food can come from anywhere, and go everywhere. Identifying the exact source of an outbreak of disease requires collaboration across many agency lines and political boundaries. Once a food item is determined, traceback activities may frequently take investigators around the world.
All of this activity takes time, and people may continue to be exposed while the investigation is still underway. But it also means that the well-intentioned seller has no idea that they are spreading disease, and may in fact be doing everything right that is under their control. If the contamination occurs in another part of the food chain, innocent producers, distributors and sellers may become implicated in the mind of the public, unfairly. That is more of a problem for industry, but it is also a problem for consumers.
My point is that today we have a food supply that maximizes convenience, but it is also so complex, it enables disease to spread widely before problems are known. The complexity of the food chain also means that once a problem is identified, it still takes a tremendous amount of effort to really pinpoint where the breakdown of otherwise effective controls is taking place.
In the past, our production was not as centralized. An outbreak would be more limited, and fewer people would become ill. That does not mean less overall illness would occur, because many small producers may have been less aware than modern industrial firms are of proper food handling procedures. It is still true that outbreaks today, when they occur, have the potential to impact more people.
What solution do I have for this dilemma? None really, but I do have some ideas about what individuals can do to become more connected with their food. It is really hard to feel connected to food that comes from the vast industrial food chain. Tomorrow I'll share some thoughts about how to bring back a sense of connection with food, and hopefully enhance our enjoyment of food.



